Why Pigment Doesn't Retain After Permanent Makeup: Main Mistakes, Causes, and Solutions Why Pigment Doesn't Retain After Permanent Makeup: Main Mistakes, Causes, and Solutions A situation painfully familiar to many beginner PMU (Permanent Makeup) artists: the procedure went perfectly, the sketch was drawn flawlessly, the client left happy, but a month later, after full healing, there is no trace of the permanent makeup left. The client is disappointed and demands explanations, while the artist begins to doubt their own competence, change techniques, or look for "magic" inks. Why does the skin reject the pigment? Why do some clients have an 80-90% retention rate, while others have zero? The process of pigment healing and retention is a complex biochemical and physiological mechanism. To achieve the perfect result, you need to understand skin anatomy, know your equipment, and be able to analyze the client's health condition. In this comprehensive guide, we will analyze all the hidden factors that affect color fixation: from the artist's technique to the quality of consumables and home aftercare. Skin Anatomy and the Physiology of Pigment Retention To understand where the color disappears, you need to understand where it goes. Human skin consists of three main layers: the epidermis (top layer), the dermis (middle layer), and the hypodermis (subcutaneous fat). How the Immune System Works: The Role of Macrophages Any insertion of pigment under the skin is an injury and an invasion of a foreign substance. The body instantly reacts to this by triggering an immune response. Macrophages—defender cells—rush to the puncture site. Their main goal is to "eat" the foreign pigment particles and remove them through the lymphatic system. The stronger the skin trauma during the session (due to dull needles or improper machine handling), the more aggressive the immune response will be, and the more pigment the macrophages will "eat," leaving you with no result. Epidermis Thickness and the "Golden Mean" The epidermis is constantly renewing. A full cell turnover cycle takes about 28-35 days (this process slows down with age). The main task of a PMU artist is to place the pigment in the uppermost layer of the dermis (papillary layer), right under the epidermis. If placed too superficially (in the epidermis): The pigment will shed completely along with dead skin cells within a month. If placed too deep (in the reticular dermis): The pigment will stay forever but will take on a bluish, gray, or cool tone (Tyndall effect), and it will have to be removed with a laser. The Artist's Technical Mistakes: Where is the Problem? The most common cause of zero retention in beginners is a lack of technical skills and a misunderstanding of how the tool interacts with the skin. Permanent makeup requires millimeter precision. 1. Incorrect Angle and Lack of Skin Stretch The needle should enter the skin at a 90-degree angle (or a slight 80-85 degree tilt, depending on the chosen technique: powder shading, hair strokes, etc.). If you tilt the machine too much, the puncture area increases, the skin tears, and the ink simply flows back out along with the lymph. The second critical point is stretching the skin. If the skin is not stretched tightly like a drum (using a three-point stretch), the needle will just bounce off the epidermis without penetrating it to the desired depth. The pigment will remain on the surface. 2. Hand Speed and Voltage Synchronization of movements is the foundation of professionalism. Swiping too fast: If your hand moves faster than the machine can make punctures (low voltage), the needle will act like a scalpel—scratching the skin without leaving a drop of color inside. Moving too slow: At high voltage, the needle will over-work one spot, turning the skin into "minced meat," causing severe swelling and bleeding. Lymph fluid will wash out the entire result. The Impact of Equipment and Consumables on Retention It is impossible to do high-quality, atraumatic work with poor tools. Cheap "Chinese" modules quickly become dull, have needle vibration (wobble) in the tip, traumatize the skin, and cause severe swelling, which prevents the ink from settling. In the Tatushechka online store, we always emphasize to artists that saving money on consumables is a direct path to losing clients. Quality of Cartridges (Modules) Dull needles tear the skin instead of puncturing it. To avoid unnecessary trauma, it is important to choose certified PMU cartridges with a reliable membrane and perfect soldering. Kwadron PMU Optima 30/1RLLT cartridges are considered a true standard of sharpness among professionals—they implant the pigment softly, leave a microscopic footprint, and minimize lymph fluid release, ensuring high retention. Machine Stability If your device vibrates heavily, making a crisp and clean pixel is impossible. The puncture becomes jagged, it hurts the client, and the skin bleeds. For a stable result and predictable retention, it is crucial to use reliable PMU machines with a smooth stroke and a balanced motor. Short-stroke or hybrid machines are best for beginners, as it is harder to go too deep with them. The Role of Pigments: Chemical Composition Matters Retention also heavily depends on what exactly you are working with. All modern pigments are divided into three major groups: Organic: Have a fine-dispersed structure. They easily and quickly fly into the skin, provide bright colors, and have high retention (up to 80%). However, they require very careful handling to avoid creating dense patches. Inorganic (Mineral): Have a larger molecule. They are harder to implant into the skin and require denser packing in several passes. Retention after the first session may be small (30-40%), but they look extremely natural and are easily removed by laser. Hybrid: The golden mean. They combine the longevity of organics with the elegance of minerals. If you want a stable result without surprises, use trusted brands. For example, artists love using LIK Pigment #001 Silk Pink for the lip area—it implants softly and gives a juicy, even retention. For eyebrows, a perfect choice would be the hybrid Viva Ink Eyebrows #3 pigment, which heals predictably without shifting into undesirable red or gray tones. Individual Characteristics of the Client's Body Sometimes the artist does everything perfectly: takes the best Kwadron, the perfect pigment, works with the right stretch, but the body simply rejects the color. Physiology always plays a decisive role. Skin Type and Condition Oily, porous, thick skin: The most difficult type for PMU. Due to active sebum production and large pores, the ink "washes out" much faster. The hair stroke technique is contraindicated on such skin (the strokes will simply blur). Retention is usually minimal, and the procedure may require 2-3 touch-ups. Dry and thin (parchment) skin: The pigment implants instantly and very brightly. The main danger here is going too dark or too deep. Retention on such skin is almost 100%. Couperose skin (visible capillaries): The slightest trauma causes bleeding, which literally pushes the pigment out. Hormones and Immunity Hormones control all processes in our body. During menstruation, pregnancy, lactation, as well as with thyroid problems or while taking hormonal contraceptives, the immune system can behave unpredictably. The body can aggressively attack the pigment, nullifying the artist's work. Medications Blood thinners (like Aspirin) or antibiotics taken the day before the session have a catastrophic effect on the result. The blood becomes thin, lots of lymph fluid is released, and the color simply doesn't have time to fixate in the dermis. The same applies to drinking alcohol or energy drinks 24 hours before the procedure. How to Work with Difficult Skin and Heavy Lymph Fluid? If you notice during work that the skin is bleeding heavily, the pigment is not fixing, and the area is swelling, you must act immediately: Lower the voltage on your power supply and slow down your hand speed. Reduce the needle hang (protrusion). Work in short strokes; do not make long sweeps. To stop the release of lymph and constrict blood vessels, be sure to use a high-quality hemostatic product. For these purposes, Feel Better Now secondary numbing gel is excellent—it instantly relieves swelling, removes redness, "whitens" the skin, and allows the pigment to calmly settle into the tissues without being washed out. Areas of Responsibility: Who is to Blame for No Retention? To make it easier for the artist and client to understand the causes, we have compiled a detailed visual responsibility table. Area of Responsibility Problem Description How to Avoid or Fix It Artist Implanting too superficially or weak skin stretch Control the depth by feel (vibration) and create a firm stretch with three fingers. Artist Improper use of anesthetics Apply secondary numbing sparingly, do not leave it on too long (otherwise the skin will become tough and stop taking color). Client Picking scabs (flakes) during healing Strictly forbid this! By picking a scab, the client rips the pigment out of the unhealed dermis, creating gaps and scars. Client Visiting a sauna, pool, or tanning bed Moisture, steam, and UV rays destroy fresh pigment in the first 14 days. Provide the client with an aftercare sheet. Materials Defective cartridge, dull needle, or unstable pigment Use only original products from verified suppliers, like the Tatushechka store. Improper Aftercare (The Client Factor) Aftercare is 50% of the success. An artist can do a perfect job, but if the client neglects hygiene rules, the pigment will heal patchy. Stages of Healing: What You Need to Know Days 1-3: The area looks bright, there may be slight swelling and lymph secretion. Lymph should be gently wiped with a cotton pad soaked in chlorhexidine so it doesn't dry into a thick crust. Days 4-7: Peeling begins (formation of films or thin crusts). The area may itch during this time. The main rule is not to scratch or pick! Days 7-14: The crusts fall off. It may seem like there is no color at all (the "milky skin" effect—the new epidermis is still matte and hides the pigment). Days 15-30: The color gradually blooms, stabilizes, and takes on its final appearance. Only after a month can you evaluate the true retention. How to Explain the Lack of Retention to the Client and Why a Touch-Up is Needed? Clients often think PMU is like a classic tattoo: done once for life. This is a myth that the artist must dispel during the consultation. Explain to the client that permanent makeup is always a two-step procedure: The first session is about getting to know the skin. The artist works very cautiously, implanting the pigment lightly and superficially. It is better to under-do than go too dark. Every body is unique, and it is impossible to predict the immune system's reaction 100% in advance. The touch-up (after 1-1.5 months) is about bringing the work to perfection. The artist sees how the skin reacted to the ink: how much color is left, how the tone changed. During the touch-up, density is added, color warmth is adjusted, and any gaps where the pigment didn't take are filled in. Without a touch-up, the procedure is considered incomplete. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What to do if the pigment doesn't retain again after the touch-up? If the retention is zero after the second procedure, you need to look for a deeper cause. Perhaps the client hid the fact they are taking hormonal medications, has excessively oily skin (in which case you need to change the implantation technique and use more opaque pigments), or is violating aftercare rules (actively exercising, steaming the face). The artist should also check their equipment. Does coffee affect permanent makeup retention? Yes, it does. Caffeine increases blood pressure and dilates blood vessels. If you drink strong coffee or an energy drink right before a session, bleeding during the procedure may increase, complicating the artist's work and causing the ink to wash out. It is recommended to avoid coffee 3-4 hours before the procedure. Is it true that PMU lasts longer on mature skin? Yes, this is true. With age, the metabolism slows down, epidermal cells renew less frequently, and the immune system reacts less aggressively. On mature, dry skin, permanent makeup sets very quickly and lasts for years, so you need to work with such clients as gently and superficially as possible.